For some reason I find her tales of riding these inspiring. So inspiring that it dawned on me that I had never ridden a century (100 miles) on a conventional (non-recumbent) bike. Last Saturday, after reading the paper and downing a pot of coffee, I decided to rectify this situation. I left the house at 10 am on a warm but pleasant day. I decided to ride to White Ferry, Maryland on the C&O Canal towpath, cross the Potomac on the ferry and return on the W&OD Trail.
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Just before I came to the canal, I encountered a bike rider loaded down with all kinds of stuff. I asked him where he was headed and he responded abruptly with one word: "Maine". Then he rode off, heading toward Rock Creek Park. He managed to make it about 200 yards before turning towards "Pittsburgh" which I am pretty sure is not in "Maine". I caught up to him and straightened him out. By now he's probably in North Carolina.
I made my way to the towpath and started the grind to White's Ferry, about 35 miles away. (As the crow flies it's probably only 30 miles but the river goes whatever damn way it wants to, and straight it ain't.) Near Great Falls I came upon an all too familiar site, storm damage. Every ten years or so, the Potomac River floods. Waters, pinched between cliffs, can rise dozens of feet, especially in this area. This Spring's flood carried away a chunk of the hill side that the towpath passes over. The Park Service was kind enough to put in a detour that was easily ridden. It will likely take years to fix this. Congress doesn't like to appropriate money to such things. Better to spend it on subsidies for rutabaga growers.
After about 15 miles I stopped to chat with a young couple looking a little testy on the side of the trail. They were coming from Pittsburgh, the entire way on unpaved trails. I congratulated them on being so close to the end of their journey and continued on. They managed a smile as I rode off. Stiff upper lip, you two.
Another five miles into my travels I encountered two men of a certain age. They were coming from the far end of the canal in Cumberland Maryland. They had already ridden over 150 miles, much of it through mud. If it bothered them, they sure weren't showing it. They were having a blast, even with bikes caked in dirt. Their mud worries were a thing of the past, as I assured them it was dry all the way to DC.
On I cycled taking in the green all around, listening to the birds, enjoying the river views and listening to the constant crunch of tires on the path. The C&O is a very pleasant place to ride but, if you ride it far enough, you'll learn that it is a grind. Rocks, tree routes, ruts from service vehicles all make for an honest day's work. Gliding is not allowed; you'll slow to a stop in 30 yards if you do.
A canoe slid by at one point in the quiet waters of the canal. A dog sat between the paddlers. It ignored its instincts to chase every little critter that moved. Spoiled by Milk Bones.
Some parts of the canal are covered by pond scum. In its way, pond scum has a beauty of its own. This particular stretch reminded me of Dead Man's Pond, a refuge of my Albanian childhood now filled in by evil adults who could not appreciate its importance to 10 year old kids bored beyond belief by too much summer vacation.
In another section of the canal, a gaggle of kayakers were paddling to and fro. I like kayaks but this seemed a little confined. Kayaks are like bikes in that they are meant for exploration. Penning them up in a canal defeats their central purpose. Free the kayaks!
After several hours in my linear sanctuary, I made it to Whites Ferry. The ferry was unloading cars on the far side of the Potomac so I had time to use the restroom. As I was about to enter, three women came out and headed for their bikes parked nearby. In short order I learned that they were headed for Pittsburgh. They were clean and smiling. They had not yet faced the mudfest that awaits way out west. Good luck, m'ladies. May the bugs leave you be, may the rains pass you by. Tailwinds.
Twenty miles from home I came to the Beltway. It, too, was under construction. This somehow seems to be its natural state. The construction involved widening the Beltway which meant that the trail bridge across the highway had to be longer. Out with the old (straight ahead in the photo), in with the new (on the left).
When I got home I looked down and saw 101.00. Mission Accomplished. Did I feel all pumped up with an inspirational sense of accomplishment? Yes. Did every effing muscle in my body want to kill me in my sleep? Mais oui!. For the next several days, in fact. Luckily, they were all too tired to pull off the assault, It's now been three days and I feel recovered, more or less. We're out of Oreos and Ho Ho's. I don't know if they helped my muscles but they felt pretty damned good going down.
A tip of my Ho Ho to Gersemalina and Felkerino. Bon chance en France.
I love this writeup! Nice ride and excellent description of the day's journey. How cool you saw so many touring cyclists, too!
ReplyDeleteAppalling or inspiring, ha ha! Quite funny and I feel quite complimented!
Hey, congrats John on doing a Century on your bike! :) :) It was a nice day to do it - not too hot. I've done 108 in one day - - it was an accomplishment, but not something I want to do many more of! :)
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